I have mentioned a few times here on the blog that I am an island girl at heart – yes, I love my little rock in the Caribbean that I live on, but I was actually born on an island! Vancouver Island, to be exact. I’m currently in Canada for a 5-week break from Roatan, and when one of my best friends offered to have me come out to Vancouver Island and stay for a long weekend in Ucluelet, one of my fave little towns in Canada, I jumped at the chance.
Ucluelet (you-kloo-let), or more affectionately known locally as Ukee, is the up-and-coming little sister to Canada’s most famous surf town – Tofino. The wild waves of the west coast draw surfers year-round to Tofino and Ukee, and the stunning combination of beach & forest scenery, rugged coastline, First Nations history and charming little towns keep visitors coming back. Ukee and Tofino are about 30ish minutes by car from each other, with Pacific Rim National Park and some great surf breaks in between.
I have visited Tofino & Ucluelet many times in the past and I love seeing these tiny towns grow. Independent shops and artisan restaurants keep popping up, while the two big luxury resorts (Wickanninish Inn in Tofino and Black Rock Resort in Ukee, which may be my two favorite resorts ever but are wayyyy out of my price range) are still going strong along with several established campgrounds and smaller bed & breakfasts to accommodate travelers of all budgets.
If you have a weekend (or a long weekend in my case… or longer!) to spend in Ucluelet, I’m going to let you in on my top picks for a fantastic trip:
How to Get There
From the mainland (Vancouver): to get to the island, most people use the BC Ferries system. You can reach Nanaimo by the Horseshoe Bay or Tsawassen ferry terminals. Crossing time is just under two hours. You can drive your car on-board the ferry or walk-on. If you drive on, once you arrive in Nanaimo, follow the signs to Port Alberni or Pacific Rim National Park. These will take you on a breathtaking ride straight to Ukee in about 3 hours. There are also various small-plane flights available to the Ukee airport (use airport code YAZ), but this is a significantly more expensive option.
On-island: follow driving directions above, or if you don’t have a car, check out the Tofino Bus to get yourself around on the island. I had a great experience with them. From the Nanaimo ferry, it’s $46 one way to Ucluelet. There are several other places the bus stops that are worth checking out, so if you have a few extra days make sure to explore Victoria, Parksville & Tofino!
Where to Stay
Reef Point Cottages: I have stayed at Reef Point Cottages a few times here and can recommend them. They have great little cabins for really affordable prices and are in a fantastic location. Most of them have BBQs and hot tubs, as well as kitchens so you can cut down on eating-out costs and make your own food. There’s a grocery store and liquor nearby to stock up. One of the entrances to the Wild Pacific Trail is a short 5-minute walk away from the cottages (see ‘Things to Do’ below for more info on the trail). You might even get a visit from the resident deer as they make their way through the area.
Things to Do
Surfing: probably the biggest reason most people visit Ukee (and Tofino) is for the surfing – this area is Canada’s surf mecca. The second-most consistent place in the world for wave energy with a killer beach break as well as a few reef breaks, there are quite a few spots within a short drive to head out and get your surf on. I highly recommend going to see Andy Herridge at Wick’d Surf Camps to get set up. Check out my full review of my favorite day ever here. Andy does lessons, surf camps and guiding. He’s an awesome instructor for those wanting to get their feet wet or a few tips to become a better surfer. Or if you are already a rockstar, Andy knows the best breaks and is an all-around badass surfer to head out with for a guided trip. He can also arrange surfing & yoga packages to get your zen on in and out of the waves. Send him an email at firstname.lastname@example.org, give him a call at (250) 266-0338 or go visit him at 1559 Imperial Lane and he’ll get you sorted.
Where to Eat
Zoe’s Bakery and Cafe: I had heard all about Zoe’s Bakery and Cafe from before it was even born (the owner, Zoe, is a good friend of my host in Ukee and he kept telling me about it as it developed) so I was super excited to see it in real life. It did not disappoint. An open bakery allows you to see all the behind-the-scenes baking going on by the girls in the cutest aprons in the world (“Made in Ukee with <3”) while you order. Zoe used to be the pastry chef at a prominent Ukee resort, and her culinary skill and finesse shines through here. It was evident Ucluelet has welcomed her new business with open arms, as every time I went there was a (short) line basically non-stop. The offerings change daily, but I saw exquisitely decorated little pot-de-cremes, giant homemade peanut butter cups, cupcakes with perfectly piped frosting, cookies and tarts galore, as well as fruit & salad boxes to grab and go. A simple Drumroaster coffee menu was a refreshing change from cafes that seem to feel a need to have 28 different coffee options, and a rotating daily soup, sandwich & flatbread are up on the huge chalkboard menu (serious props to whoever did the hand-lettering on that board, it is intensely good). Big windows in the little seating area provide a view to the downtown harbor area. I tried the roasted pork loin sandwich (served on freshly baked bread with apricot mustard, homemade sprouts, pickled onions & mayo) for $8 and a rosemary, white bean & roasted garlic soup for $5.50 and it was the best soup & sandwich of MY LIFE you guys. I also devoured a raspberry chocolate bomb (around $4), which sounds crazy but was crazy good. I also tried a few coffees and teas to keep warm on the drizzly days and they were delicious. So, basically, I want to live inside this bakery forever and ever.
Ukee Dogs: One of the quirkiest places I’ve ever seen, Ukee Dogs turned out to have amazing food! On the menu are Two Rivers nitrite-free and hormone-free hot dogs with all kinds of topping combinations. I had a Canuck Dog (cheddar, sauteed onions & bacon) for $6 and a cup of their creamy, delicious chanterelle mushroom & thyme soup ($3) with their homemade gingerale (it’s on tap!) for $2.75. Laid-back staff and picnic tables outside with amazing mountain/ocean views are the cherry on the cake for this place. I can’t wait to go back again and try their smoked salmon sliders.
Wya Point Cafe: Part of a First Nations-run campground, surf shop, and resort complex, the cafe is located behind an outdoor fire pit next to the surf shop. It’s a little overpriced (not shocking, given that it’s at a campground and is also the first stop on the highway heading back from the surfing beaches – everyone is hungry!) but the menu had some of the best options I saw in Ukee. I went for the Westcoast Veg burger with hand-cut fries and it was not really worth $12 but after a long afternoon surfing it hit the spot so I didn’t care. Sitting and eating outside by the fire was kind of nice too, it made me miss camping! I’ve heard their poutine is pretty legendary… will definitely try that next time.